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Paris with kids
With children, the enemy is not distance: it is queues and time spent standing. The plans that work in Paris are the ones with a clear beginning and end, that last little more than an hour and always give them something to look at.
The cruise, the most rewarding plan
They sit down, it lasts an hour, and the Eiffel Tower, Notre-Dame and the bridges go past the window without anyone needing to be talked into walking further. The child fare runs to age 13 and under-4s go free. When a day is going badly, this is the plan that saves it: there is an indoor area if it rains and no standing in a queue in the sun.
Child €10.00
The Arc: free, but weigh up the steps
Under 18s get in free, so it works out very well as a family. The catch is the 284 steps up a narrow spiral staircase, with no lift available: with children who walk confidently it is an adventure, but with a baby you will need a carrier, as pushchairs cannot go up. The terrace itself has high railings and is safe.
Climbing the Arc de Triomphe: steps, lift and access Who gets into the Arc de Triomphe free?
What costs nothing
The Luxembourg gardens are the best park in the city for burning off energy: model sailboats to hire on the pond, a carousel and a playground. The Champ de Mars, at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, has lawns to lie on while you wait for the hourly sparkle. And at the Sacré-Cœur, the funicular costs one metro ticket and thrills them more than the basilica itself.
What to skip
Big museums in the afternoon, when they are already tired, and stacking two monuments into one day. One plan in the morning and another after lunch is a pace anyone can keep; three is where the crying starts.